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4 Easy Tips

4 Easy Tips

Who doesn’t like learning an easier way to do things? These tips all use items around the house or shop, so they won’t cost you a dime. Have your own tip you’d like to share? Send it to MAN@airage.com.

 

BOLT TAPERING

Are you having difficulty getting the nylon bolts to align with the nuts? This often happens when you try to attach the wing to the fuselage. To solve this issue, add a tapered lead to the end of the bolt using a pencil sharpener. This simple, little lead-in at the end of the bolt will improve the installation and ease of the alignment.

 

NYLON BOLT EXTRACTOR

This is how I remove a broken nylon wing-mounting bolt at the field. Just heat up the end of a Phillips screwdriver (you can use a lighter or matches, or lay the bit on your car exhaust manifold), and press the screwdriver into the broken stub about ⅛ inch. The heated screwdriver will make a Phillips slot in the broken stud. Once cool, just turn and remove the broken stub.

 

CONNECTOR CRIMPING

Due to the difference in diameter of standard wires and in sizes of wire from different manufacturers, it is sometimes difficult to get all the strands into the connector before crimping. I like to use a pair of needle-nose pliers in reverse to open up the connector’s crimping end to accommodate all of the strands. When crimping, this makes for a much neater job and I don’t have to trim off the wild strands.

 

WING BOLT WRAP-UP

Tired of slipping off your wing bolts and damaging those nice new wings? Wrap narrow strips of masking tape several times around the head of your bolts and then give them a shot of thin CA to harden them. The resulting “fence” will prevent the screwdriver from skidding out of the slot and scarring your wing.

 

Updated: January 23, 2017 — 3:51 PM
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4 Comments

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  1. I have been grinding a point not only on nylon bolts, but any bolt or screw that can be a challenge to start threading. But before grinding or sharpening the bolt end, since burrs left on the bolt can interfere with easy threading, I thread a metal nut onto the bolt first. Then, after grinding the end to a point, I can use the nut as a die to cut through any burrs left on the end of the bolt. Thread the nut partially off and on a few times, just like when threading a metal rod with your taps and dies; and then remove it all the way. The bolt should be free of burrs. Also, a drop of oil or WD-40 on the bolt will allow for smoother off-threading of the nut. The oil can be washed off with hot water or some rubbing alcohol.

    1. Richard,
      I do exactly how you do. Great comments!

  2. wind the bolts through a bar of soap. The ideal lubricant.

  3. Please don’t use normal bar soap on steel bolts or nuts. It contains acidic chemicals (used to “degrease” your body) that will eventually corrode the steel bolts / nuts (and make aluminum parts dissolve). Use Ivory bar soap (really not a brand plug) as it is no-acidic (Ivory dish soap is no good), that is why it is so much less irritating if it gets in an infants eyes during a both. Better to use beeswax, but the Ivory is cheaper and easier to find.

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