ASM Lancaster Bomber

Nov 30, 2010 6 Comments by

Advance Scale Models Lancaster

By John Reid

Check out my latest kit:  the ASM Lancaster, this thing is big!

How big you ask.  Well it is a1/10th scale replica and the fuselage has an internal structure of ply formers and carbon fiber longerons, with the outer skin being molded from tough ABS plastic. The plane measures 120″ (10 feet) from wingtip to wingtip, and the fuselage is 80” inches long. Once it is all done it will weigh in the vicinity of 28 to 30 pounds.

Here it is on my workbench, notice how it takes up all the space on the bench which is 4’ x 8’

That is a lot of airplane!

Getting bored from waiting for the parts to come in I decided to start hinging all the control surfaces on the Lancaster. All of the surfaces use hinge points for attachment and I used pacers, hinge glue for them.  

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12/01/2010 Update

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Still waiting on the servos, ESC, motors, retracts and batteries.  So I decided to work on the gun turrets.

Here it is on the fuselage.

The guns are just plastic tube with thicker plastic at the end.  I wanted them to have a cone at the end, to repackage the full size aircraft.  So I found some wall anchors, cut the ends off and glued them to the tip of the guns.  Then I added another smaller tube between the end and the gun base.  The gun based are already made in the kit, but are kinda boxy, I rounded them off to lose the sharp edge.

Here is the nose gun turret.

On the plane, and last here is the tail gun turret.

Here it is mounted on the aircraft.

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12/02/2010 Update

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The fuselage come in two section that are bolted together to make it easy to transport.  Here are the two rods that align the fuselage and give it some strength.

Here is a shot down the top of the fuselage…

and a shot down the inside of the fuselage.

I glued in all of the windows.

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12/3/10 Update

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I found some servos and started installing the elevators and tailwheel.

 

Here is a little better image of the tailwheel section.

This is how it looks with the hatch all buttoned on.

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12/6/2010 Update

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Got my box of goodies, now I can really start building!

It takes a lot of stuff to get this plane together.  Here are my four flap servos, yea four servos just for the flaps. There are two inside wing panels and the two outer wing halves that all have flaps in them.

Here are my two aileron servos, because the ailerons are rather large I wanted some high torque servos.  However these might be a little overkill as far as torque goes, but there will be no blow by on the ailerons.  The torque rating on these servos is 361 in/oz @4.8v and 423 in/oz @ 6v (this is where they will be operating at in the Lancaster).

The wing and Bombay servos are all mounted in these servos compartments and then epoxied to the model, in the case of the wing they are glued to the servo hatch.

I got the rudders on with the servo hooked up. So far the part fit had been excellent.

12/9/10 Update

 

Here is the typical installation of the aileron or flap servo. After the servo is mounted to the servo compartment it is then epoxied to the aileron or flap servo hatch then screwed back into place. Notice I added some extra epoxy on this side to the hardwood rails for added support.

This is the outer wing side of the hatch.  I added two extra screws into the hardwood servo rails for extra support.   These will be painted flat black later so they won’t be as noticeable.

Here is the servo hatch with servo sitting in the wing waiting for the screws to be added.

Everything all hooked up for a flap.

 

12/13/10

Today I started installing the retracts and gear doors.

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Here is the hinge point that need to be drilled and installed in the gear doors, the balsa is include and need to be epoxied to the gear doors.  The back-up wood is already installed on the nacelles which give you the location for the hinges.

Close up of the hinge connection from the inside.

From the outside

 

12/14/10

 

Here is the view of the retracts installed

Be sure to pre-drill the hole for the retract screws. The wood used for the rails is very hard and will crack if you do not use a good size pilot hole.

Another view from the inside with the gear doors closed.

 

12/15/10

 

On large models like this you need some way to center up the servos when installing them in the model.  I use the Hitec Digital Servo Programmer.  This servo programmer can also be used to check the servos and move them throughout their travel range.  Check out my video elsewhere on the website on how to use the Servo Programmer to install your servos.

 

 

12/16/10

 

I got the wheel for the retracts; now I can install the mechanism for the doors to open and close.  These are some large wheels.

The brass hinge is installed on the piece used to close the landing gear doors.  I added some bolts and nut along with some epoxy to make the joint strong.  

Here is the completed piece with the door wire attached.

 

 

12/20/10 Update

 

The retract door mechanism works by the movement of the wheel.  When it comes up, the hinged wood is pressed up, pulling the doors up with it.  (right now I only have one screw holding on the hinge, when I have it all set up I will install two 4-40 bolts and lock nuts on it, along with some epoxy.)

This is how the door is connected to the hinge wood piece.  When the wheels come down they just push the doors open.  I tacked the control horns in place with some thick CA until everything is correctly adjusted.  Then I will rough it up some and lay down some Epoxy with micro balloons.  

 

Update 01/ 6/2011

Happy New Years, well the Holidays took up most of my time, but now it is back to work.

In-between all of the clamps and squares are my custom made motor mounts for each nacelle.

Here is a motor mounted to the mounts.  They are made from lite-plywood and some dowel.

I used the spinner to line up the motors and epoxied them to the wall using Bob Smith’s BSI 30-minute Epoxy.

 

Update 01/09/2011

 

Took me most of the night but I finally got all of my soldering done, I also had to solder up four motor extensions with Deans connectors, two measuring 36” while the other two are at 24”.

 

Update 01/11/2011

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It took a little bit of work but I finally got the outer nacelles on the wings.  Once all together it is just a simple matter of bolting them onto the wing. I would recommend preinstalling them before getting in the motor and ESC because it will be much lighter to work with.

Here is the other side before the prop and spinner.

Front of the nacelle with the motor and ESC installed.

Update 01/12/2011

 

I use some painters tape to line up the plywood support and make it easy to place the cowl screws.

The inner nacelles are now going on, you have to open up a hole in the wing for the retracts to drop down into.  I will be keeping the inner wing panels on the plane all the time so I am not adding any connections for them to come off.

 

Update 01/13/2011

 

Here is the wire mess I am starting with before I get them all connected and organized.

I had to make a new location for the air tank.  The original location will be used for the battery compartment. They will be located in front of the aircraft to help balanced it.

Again I use the Hitec Servo tester to set up the air activation switch for the retracts.

 

Update 01/15/2011

So far this weekend has been very productive and the Lancaster is moving along very well.

Here is my custom made battery holder; this will fit 4-5000mAh 4-cell batteries, one for each motor.  They will be accessible through the bomb bay doors. Noticed my flight battery and air tank fill valve are all feeing out into that open bay, the rest of the bomb bay will be fill with, you guessed it, Bombs.  There will be Fourteen in all.

The bomb bay hinges require the hinges points to be angled in much like you do on flaps. I start with a 1/16” drill then move up to the 1/8” drill for the finished size of the hinge point. To get my drills started I notch out a “V” on the corner of the fuselage with my hobby knife, then it is easy to drill in at an angle right on the corner.

 

The doors are hinged and I let the glue dry overnight

 

Update 01/16/2011

 

 

Here are the bomb bay doors all hooked up

A close-up view of the connections, you will need a long control arm.  I would recommend having the servos on their own channel, to make adjustments easier.

I will bundle up all the loose wires back there  with some nylon ties, but I am not going to be too neat with all of this, because all of these bays will be covered with the bomb platform going in next.

 

Update 01/17/2011

Getting close, here are the bombs loaded up in the Bombay bay.

I put the batteries up in the front bay of the bomb compartment.  Here they are all tied in.

The last assembly, gluing on the canopy

Close-up of the nose

I had to build a stand for the plane so it can rest up-side down.

Update 01/24/2011

 

We took the Lancaster out over the weekend to test out everything; here is a shot of it rolling down the runway.

Here it is dropping a payload of bombs.

 

All done sitting on the bench waiting for the ride to the flying field

The First flight with not problems, this plane looks great cursing by!

Here is the Lancaster doing what it is supposed to do, drop bombs, and this one drops a lot of them.

Taxing back after a very successful mission.

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About the author

West Coast senior editor About me: I’ve been involved with RC aircraft since high school and have flown just about everything. I started my RC career with scratch-building, but now like many pilots I rely on ARFs to get me in the air. My main focus is on pylon racing, aerobats, combat and scale warbirds.

6 Responses to “ASM Lancaster Bomber”

  1. Mick Sturgeon says:

    Nice one John!!!! I really enjoyed following the build

  2. John Reid says:

    Thanks Mick,
    I hope to be doing an update soon on the installation of the battery switches.

  3. Jordan says:

    Love the Lancaster, my favourite WW11 plane ever!!! I have searched everywhere, where can I buy it.

    • John Reid says:

      The Lancaster was available from Hobby People, but now I do not see it on their website. Not sure where you can get it.

  4. Shaun Waters says:

    Hi John,
    This blog of yours has saved my life I think ! I just bought this model from a shop window display in Stratford England and don’t have much info with it, your blog fills in a lot of gaps for me so thank you. It is no longer available so I am makling my own retracts which is interesting !
    I do have a couple of questions, can you tell me how you made the bomb release system, I have the bombs in a static rack.
    Do you have a connection diagram for the radio, ESC’s, and Lipos

  5. Gareth Bryant says:

    Hi John. Excellent build log, very informative & well written. I have a couple of questions for you. I’m also electrifying this model, could you let me know what specs you used on the motors? was 4S enough? I’m thinking I may go to 4x 5S on mine. Have made a ply frame for the canopy so I can get access to the batteries through the top, much easier. Also, how did you get the bombs to release? were they just left loose in the doors? (I’m guessing they were the VQ Warbirds items?) Many thanks in advance
    Gareth Bryant

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