Follow along as Charlie Hynes builds the latest kit version of this classic airplane!
As you know, the Telemaster is one of the few designs that has stood the test of time, with the name dating back to the early days of modeling. This latest version has come a long way from the lumber yard it once was now with over 7 hours of laser cutting done for you. A popular choice for air drops, it comes with a plywood cargo box for dropping anything that fits … water balloons, parachutes, candy? Also the standard for aerotowing gliders and banners or flags, this plane can handle it all. This 91-inch version is electric and comes with the right sized motor mount battery hatch and has plug in wings and stabs, flaps and even optional floats for seaplane practice.
The first look out of the box no fancy package just what you need.
The parts are all laser cut with rolled plans and full set of hardware.
The wing taking shape built over the full size plans.
A 2×4 ceiling tile over flat bench top makes it easy to pin down and move around to look from other sides before the glue sets.
With the sheer webs going on the front of the main spars a couple of them needed trim around the bottom sheeting.
Planing the trailing edge to match the wing ribs before the top sheeting can fit. The size of the shavings gives me a good idea how close it is.
Sanding the wood after planing the majority of it I had to watch the color of the ribs to tell when to change angles or stop. This sanding block is not ideal as it holds the paper sort of flat; a sanding bar or block with the paper glued on is preferred.
Not shown: I’m building both wing halves at the same time so I can skip the last step on the wing where it says “repeat steps 1 to 39 for the second panel.”
Here are the wing servo mounting plates using hardwood strips for screw backing and triangle gussets along the laser cut keys.
Here is a spring that replaced the rubber band to hold the lock pin extended.
The lock pin handle is beefy plywood that moves in the slot to pivot to one of the side slots to hold it open for wing installation or removal.
With the lock pin extended in the locked position it should move freely in the hole before gluing the parts to it.
With the main spar inserted. It holds the hardwood guide rails in place while the glue sets.
Shaping the leading edge same as the trailing edge to accept the top sheeting the razor plane does a quick job just not against the root rib that was sanded down as was the final shaping and the wing tip block.
After gluing only the top aft part of the leading edge sheet on it is held in place with tape until its dry before gluing the rest down.
Here the flaps and ailerons are set up in pairs making the left and right sides mirror opposites to ensure they will fit later.
Once the ribs are glued the leading edge parts are also glued on. These are already cut and only fit in one direction.
Watch for the flap hinge slots when gluing on these leading edge parts if your using white glue keep it out of those slots they are a slight step on the bottom it could make installing the hinges difficult later.
With a razor plane the tops of the aileron and flaps are shaved down to match the ribs to prepair for the top sheets.
Now they are pined down and the top sheets are glued in place. I marked them as right and left parts for now.
This is the hinge-slot cutting tool they provided and just a few passes with a new blade has them ready to accept those. One slot is ailerons and the other is flaps. Just use
this on the wing only since the control surfaces already have those slots cut.
With the hinge lines being different so are the trim requirements on the flap and ailerons. On the right is the flap its just a chamfer on the bottom sheet and the aileron is
beveled on top and bottom meeting on the hinge line.
I have installed the hinges for this next step as the flap drops it exposes the hinge a little but these will get glued later on.
Here is the wing tip and the triangle stock used to shape the aileron tip to match.
After shaping the tip the parts can be removed and final sanded getting them ready to cover. Just fine sand paper 150 or 220 grit on these a little at a time.
This is the base plate for one of the stabilizers with a plate that the servo cover attaches to. It also gets the 4 40 blind nuts installed at this time.
Here the bottom main spar leading and trailing edge parts. Once they are pinned down the ribs can be located.
With all the ribs in place the shear webs and top main spar can be located and glued. Then it can be removed from the board sand the ends and install the tips same procedure as the wing.
Here the elevators are built up over the bottom sheeting and the joiner is installed along with the ribs.
With the razor plane and sanding bar the top leading and trailing edges are trimmed down to the height of the ribs.
There is a step down between the top sheeting that is filled with a 1/8 sq and pre cut balsa cap.
This is the vertical stab and rudder built at the same time using 1/4 square balsa stick for ribs between the leading and trailing edge.
Making some side walls is the fuselage beginning with inboard and outboard sides. The one with the extra slots goes inboard the upper and lower halves get edge glued together first.
Making up a left and right side mirror opposites before gluing them together the sides are cross grain to add strength and warp resistance these were cured under heavy books.
The aft section was attached to the forward parts once they were dry. That center piece was cut to fit everything else so far was pre cut and a perfect fit.
Here are the firewall, battery tray and second bulkhead all being glued at once on one half.
This is the third bulkhead it is attached freestanding so the square was used again while the glue cured on the same side.
After a trial fit and some glue applied the other side was stacked on the frames and weight was used to hold it down tight while the glue cured.
The bottom of f2 needed to be sanded down so the landing gear plate sat flush before gluing.
After building up the gear base plate, latch and cargo opening these parts are glued onto the bottom.
Here some 1/4 sheet was cut down and glued on cross grain due to the bowed shape rubber bands hold them down while the glue cures then the over hanging sides can be sanded flush.
In the rear these lateral braces were tacked in place using a pin through the center holding them down across all 3 glue points then f4 thru f7 are located to ensure the tips have clearances before gluing. The right side used the drawing with the other side being mirror opposite.
There are blind nuts that go inside the wing root with them being longer than the disc I used a scrap of balsa to hammer them down instead if trying to draw them thru with the bolts, then they pushed into the soft balsa inside the fuse with glue on the disc and a spring clamp held each one in place while the glue cured before putting the next one on.
Here the main spar is fitted into the slot to hold the three sticks in there slots while that glue sets up removing the spar before it is cured in place and cleaning off any squeezed out glue.
With the rear of the fuselage taking final shape the stab plate is glued on and the tail wheel brace under that then each former ahead of that can be glued in place with little effort.
Ten equal length sticks are glued onto this gap giving it more of a boxed in look and additional strength.
Coming up is the motor mount and final assembly getting it ready to cover.
Here is the motor mount as it goes together without cutting or sanding everything keys together well and using 6/32 screws it gets attached for now.
This is the top of the fuselage after adding the sheeting, windshield and test fitting the wing. It is a tight fit first time so don’t force anything check holes for glue and anything else that causes binding.
Stepping back with the wing installed the first time It looks bigger now on top of my 4×8-foot bench. Just a few more things to do now and it will be ready to cover.
Here I have installed the BL60 brushless motor with 6/32 screws and the 65A ESC with zip ties against the mount plate provided. It has a Deans connector and very short wires that just reach the firewall.
Here is the finished motor mounted on the nose. Again the 6/32 screws attach to the blind nuts previously installed on the firewall.
Now is the last chance to smooth out the seams and gaps. Also building over wax paper leaves excess glue that will show through the covering. With light finger tip feel the areas to do additional sanding since the covering will only cover so much and what looks good enough may look worse once the covering is attached. Peeling it back to fix something that can be found and fixed now.