Brian Fisher is a retired engineer living just north of Parry Sound right on Georgian Bay in a lovely house he had built from his own design.  Brian can literately fly float planes right off his own dock.  Brian has been modeling with his Dad since he was 10 and said that Rat-Racing was his thing as a teenager.   After a long break from models Brian got back into the hobby during the 80s and hasn’t looked back.  Tired of the mess from nitro planes Brian has like many switched to gas models and if its scale he’s probably built at least one of everything.

Well I finally got back into the workshop after traveling to the Toledo show so lets get back to the Triplane project. We are getting really close to the “Finish” line and after installing the servos and working out the control linkages and pushrods, we will be ready to cover this beauty! Total time spent on the Triplane since starting back in October 2012 is just about 400 hours! Lets check out those Hinges.

Poet William Blake said, “Great things are done when men and mountains meet.” In the misty foothills of Chilliwack, BC, there lives such a man. Humble and unassuming, Ivan Pettigrew has become a legend of the electric RC community and a MAAC Hall of Fame inductee. His spectacular subjects and straightforward design philosophy have spawned tribute threads on the Internet and an organization in England dedicated to his models.

• 38 Editors' Picks: Quadcopter Roundup

  The next generation of RC fun! By Electric Flight Crew

• 42 Skyartec Wasp Nano

  A micro flybarless 3D machine ready to fly out of the box By Aaron Strietzel

• 46 Blade/ Horizon Hobby 500 3D

  This 500-class heli comes ready to rock! By Aaron Strietzel

• 50 Traxxas DR-1

  A coaxial dual rotor heli that's fast, stable, and easy to fly! By Electric Flight Crew

• 54 Heli Flight School: The Death Spiral

  Tricks to flying this impressive maneuver By Aaron Strietzel

• 56 Heli Talk: High Voltage Revisited

  A closer look at power and performance

  By Jim Ryan

The next generation of RC fun!

By the Electric Flight crew Photos by Hope McCall

Quadcopters, also referred to as quad-rotor helicopters, are multi-rotor designs that generate lift with four fixed pitched rotors/propellers. The rotors are powered by electric motors (one per rotor) positioned on the end of rigid booms that support a center pod or structure platform, which houses and supports the battery, radio, control board, and power systems. For control, the thrust of the rotors are adjusted collectively as a group, to produce lift for hovering. For side to side and fore/aft maneuvering, the on-board controller adjusts the speed of the motors to vary the torque and lifting forces to produce cyclic response using a 4-channel transmitter. Some form of integrated, on-board stabilization system gives quadcopter models their pilot-friendly flight stability.

RC multi-rotor helicopters have been around for a while and they enjoy continued popularity. The first-generation designs were strictly kits built around generic control boards and were fairly large, using motors and electronics originally meant for RC airplanes. There are also all sorts of configurations to choose from. They can be tricopters and the most popular, quadcopters, as well as hexacopters and even octocopters—the main differences being the number of motors, rotors, and their on-board controllers!

The newest generation of multi-rotor quadcopters are extremely easy to fly and are available from micro and medium sizes, ready to fly in five minutes, to kits for the advanced RC experimenter who wants all the parts and electronics to do it themselves. For this Editors' Pick Roundup, we've collected some of the most popular to highlight. If you've been thinking about switching from fixed-wing flight to multi-rotor fun, then this article is a great place to start.

Blade mQX

Featuring the AS3X stabilization system, the Blade mQX can be easily flown both indoors or outdoors. Breezy or gusty wind conditions aren't a problem, and you'll find that you can pilot this quadcopter just about anywhere. Available in both ready to fly (RTF) and Bind-n-Fly (BNF) versions. The RTF version includes a 4-channel DSM2 transmitter with batteries, E-flite 1S 3.7V 500mAh LiPo battery, E-flite Celectra 1-cell DC variable rate LiPo charger. The mQX can be configured in an X flight setup (with two rotors front and two rotors rear) or in a + configuration (with one rotor front and one back, as well as one on either side).

Heli-Max 1SQ

The Heli-Max 1SQ comes in two versions: a ready to fly (RTF), which includes its own 2.4GHz transmitter, and as transmitter $ready (Tx-R) version where you can use your own transmitter hooked up with a tactic AnyLink module.

This stylish hovering machine is so stable anyone can fly it. It's very durable and capable of flying outdoor flight in light winds. Both versions come with a LiPo flight battery, a USB-powered charger, and extra blades.

Its TAGS gyro system stabilizes all three axes (yaw, roll, and pitch), so external forces don't affect its stable performance. The RTF's transmitter has easy-to-adjust dual rates so you can dial in the response and performance you like—low rate for slow, easy flying or high rate for increased response and performance.

Traxxas QR-1

Traxxas took a big step into the RC aircraft arena with the release of their multi-rotor QR-1 quadcopter. Even though the QR-1 is the smallest quadcopter on the market today, it has a solid substantial feel when you hold it in your hand. It's not a cheap, throw-away toy! In the air, it also has a solid and steady feel while hovering.

The ready-to-fly (RTF) package is very complete and you get a 4-channel 2.4GHz transmitter with four Traxxas “AAA” alkaline batteries, two 3.7V 240mAh LiPo packs, a spare rotor blade set (four), a Phillips-head screwdriver and a USB-powered dual LiPo battery pack charger. The QR-1 is available with different graphic colors including red, blue, orange, and green, and there are also two small blue LEDs on the front of the body to help tell which direction you're flying in. It is also available as an EZ-Connect version (without transmitter) so you can use it with the Traxxas radio that comes with the Traxxas DR-1 coaxial-rotor heli.

The QR-1 has two control modes, “Normal” and “Expert,” that can be selected to suit anyone from the beginner rank to the seasoned quadcopter pilot. You switch from Normal and Expert and back by simply pressing the right stick down. You can even switch back and forth during flight.

Next Level 650mm Quadcopter

From Innov8tive Designs, the Next Level 650mm Quadcopter Combo kit is the perfect platform to shoot some great low-level aerial photos and videos. Available as a build-it-yourself project, all of the parts come in their own bags, labeled to match the instructions for assembly. The aluminum outrigger bars are thick to provide a solid framework for the quad motor mounts. The Naza multi-rotor controller and GPS unit are all top quality along with the Next Level ESCs and Cobra motors. The build can easily be done by anyone with some modeling experience thanks to the good quality manual, along with excellent customer service. Standard Power and High Power Combo kits are available with the popular Scorpion and Cobra brand motors, depending on whether you are into Sport Flying or intend on using the multi-rotor craft for FPV work and aerial photography.

You'll need to decide which setup you will be running on your quad—you can choose a “cross” or “X” configuration. The Naza manual and program need to be downloaded from their website. The total assembly time was about three evenings and another to program and set it all up. Once done, you have a very solid flying platform that is perfect for aerial photos or video and it is easy enough to fly, even for a fixed-wing pilot like myself. You have to supply a 6-channel radio system and a 3-cell 5000mAh LiPo battery.

Turnigy Plug-N-Fly Micro Quad

The newest version of the Turnigy quadcopter is a Plug-N-Fly, almost-ready-to-fly version of the earlier kit-built quad. All the assembly is done for you, and it features brushless motors and a fully programmable Hobby King KK2.0 control board. You have to supply your own 4-channel transmitter and matching receiver, a 500 to 900mAh 2S 7.4V LiPo flight battery and attach the included propellers to the installed brushless motors. The original gyro system has been updated to a dual chip 3-axis gyro and a single chip 3-axis accelerometer system, making this new version extremely stable and allowing an auto-level function. Two additional motor output channels have also been added for a total of eight motors to be controlled if you want to create an Octocopter. A handy Piezo buzzer is also included for audio warning when activating and deactivating the board.

Man-carrying Quadrotors

In the 1920s, Dr. George de Bothezat and Ivan Jerome developed the aircraft shown here. Equipped with six-blade rotors arranged at the ends of an X-shaped structure, two smaller propellers with variable pitch were used for thrust and yaw control. The vehicle used collective pitch control. It made its first flight in October 1922 and about 100 flights were made by the end of 1923.

BP Hobbies Cutlass

A new addition to the BP Hobbies line, the Cutlass quadcopter is a Plug-N-Play, fully assembled version ready for you to add your own 4-channel radio system (transmitter and receiver), and a 11.1V 33mAh LiPo flight battery. The control frame is made of a glass fiber/epoxy composite while the outrigger arms are made from durable nylon polymer. Its modular construction gives you the option of making this a tricopter or hexacopter aircraft. There is also an optional camera mount accessory that is big enough for GoPro Hero video cameras as well as point and shoot digital pocket cameras. The BP Cutlass also features colored arms for improved flight orientation to keep you flying the right direction without the need for different colored props. The PNP version includes frame, motors, ESCs, KK control board, propellers, prop savers, power distribution board, USB upgrading wire, conversion wire, and hardware.

All components and hardware items for the Cutlass are also available separately from bphobbies.com.

To scale modelers, there is inherent enjoyment in the challenge of producing models that represent full-scale aircraft.  The models themselves run the gambit from very loose semi-scale likenesses to full-blown museum scale models.  Certain model subjects tend to force the modeler’s hand when they possess physical characteristics that must be copied to make the model look “right”.  One such feature, which gives headaches to modelers around the world, are exposed engine cylinders.  Sometimes we are lucky enough to find commercially available cylinders of the proper engine in the correct scale but what do we do if there is nothing suitable on the market?

We are drawing close to the end of this extensive giant-scale build-along. This past weekend the cabane struts and the top wing were built and attached. Check out the sequence below.

To build the cabane struts and attach the top wing, you first have to install the kit’s alignement jig as shown about.

Start by marking the hole locations for the cabane’s top support strips. Sand and clean the strips so you get good solder joints.

Here you see the holes for the 6-32 attachment bolts and one of the straps on the end of one of the cabane wires. Again make sure all the metal parts where you will be soldering are clean.

Slide the cabane wires into place on the crutch and the middle wing and bolt the suppert strip and straps to the alignment jig. DOuble and triple check the alignment of the jib with the fuselage and if you have too, twist or bend the straps and cabane wires until everything fits properly and there is no stress on any of the parts.

To see the complete Build-along as well as other Exclusive Online Content, Subscribe to the Members’ Site at: www.airagestore.com

We are drawing close to the end of this extensive giant-scale build-along. This past weekend the cabane struts and the top wing were built and attached. Check out the sequence below.

To build the cabane struts and attach the top wing, you first have to install the kit’s alignement jig as shown about.

Start by marking the hole locations for the cabane’s top support strips. Sand and clean the strips so you get good solder joints.

Here you see the holes for the 6-32 attachment bolts and one of the straps on the end of one of the cabane wires. Again make sure all the metal parts where you will be soldering are clean.

Slide the cabane wires into place on the crutch and the middle wing and bolt the suppert strip and straps to the alignment jig. DOuble and triple check the alignment of the jib with the fuselage and if you have too, twist or bend the straps and cabane wires until everything fits properly and there is no stress on any of the parts.

The next step in assembly all the parts of the Triplane project is to attach the middle wing to the fuselage. This is a critical step in the overall alignment of the finished model, so you really need to take your time and make sure everything is staight, square and aligned properly. The other two wings will be aligned and adjusted using the middle wing as the main reference.

So, as shown above, the first step is to assemble the main parts for the wing crutch. This part is built directly on top of the fuselage and to compensate for the thickness of the covering which will be applied later on, two laters of tape should be applied in several places under the crutch. Here you see the crutch floor which is made of lite-ply. You first place the floor over the plans and then transfer all the guide lines for the formers and incidence ribs that will be attached later.

The next step (above) is to align the front 3 formers so their tops are flush and the drill the 3/8-inch holes for the wing hold-down dowels.

To see the complete Build Along series of Gerry Yarrish’s 1/3-scale Balsa USA Fokker Triplane, as well as other exclusive online content, subscribe to the members website at: http://www.airagestore.com/memberships/planes.html

In the past I have been posting some building techniques to help builders of wood kits with basic tasks on the workbench. We’ve gotten several requests for more details on my current project, the Balsa USA 1/3-scale Triplane, so I thought I would share the whole project with you.

Let’s Get Started:

I had enjoyed the 1/4-scale Triplane for several years until I lost the model at a fun fly. So after a long while I purchased the new giant triplane at the 2012 Toledo show. The instructions call for building the wings first, but I like to do the tail feathers first!

Laminating the tail surface’s parts is easy and creates strong lightweight parts.

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From the Upcoming April 2013 issue of MAN, this exclusive sneak peek of the FlyBaby Biplane Construction article includes many unpublished photos and a complete builder’s material list and details. Designed by Pat Tritle, there are formed plastic parts available as well as laser cut wood parts.

The Model:

The Flybaby Biplane was done in 1:8 scale, and is of all wood construction. The fuselage and tail section is of the typical “stick-frame” style with the wings done incorporating the “egg-crate” style rib and spar assembly. The tail section incorporates bowed outlines for a strong, yet light structure. And because of its compact size, it isn’t necessary to remove the wings for transport, so no joinery was necessary, further simplifying the design, and, helps keep the weight down. As Park Flyer style biplanes go, it just doesn’t get much better then that. The highly detailed plans contain lots of assembly and cross sectional views, as well as full size patterns to make your own Print Wood. And for those not totally into scratch building, a Short Kit containing the laser cut shaped parts and a Vac-Formed plastic cowl and dummy Continental engine is available.

Build Photos

The fuselage side frames are built over the plans then joined with the top formers and cross pieces. The forward sheeting is added using file folder paper, glued in place clamped with small stationary clamps while the glue dries.

To see the rest of this article as well as many other exclusive online material subscribe to the Members website at: www.airagestore.com