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7 Super Shop Tips from our Readers

7 Super Shop Tips from our Readers

Here are seven superb workshop tips straight from the best modelers in the world — MAN readers! Have a tip you’d like to share? Send it to MAN@airage.com (no photo or illustration required!).


Use this method to help hold on to canopies. Take an 1/8-inch-thick piece of rubber sheet, cut just a small piece to fit onto the back side of the blind nut, and carefully glue it in place with CA glue. Once it is trimmed to fit, drill a 1/16-inch-diameter hole from the front side through the rubber. When the canopy screw goes through the back side of the blind nut, the rubber acts like a nylon locknut. This keeps the screws from backing out and getting lost, saving me time and money.



Here is the way to use old credit cards, and they’ll fill a slot (no pun intended). Some jigs don’t have slots deep enough to provide a good base to keep the ribs at 90 degrees. Cut a slot in the card, so it’s still destroyed, and you now have a great building jig.



Those few of us who still build from plans or kits have long known that wax paper is less than satisfactory protection of plans when gluing with CA. Here is my solution. Try using the backing sheets from your covering film. CA absolutely will not stick to this stuff. Try to save the large pieces from covering wing panels and use it to protect your plans. Save money while recycling.



Tired of your drab old cockpit? Spruce it up with a photo. You can get pictures of aircraft cockpits from magazines, books, or even online. Just take a picture with your digital camera, and edit it with your photo program to the correct size and shape. Print the picture on photo paper, and cut it to fit your plane’s cockpit. Paint the edges with a flat color that matches the background, drop your pilot in, and you’re all set.



Straightedge rulers tend to slide when you run a knife along them to strip balsa or make cuts in covering. To help guide your blade with more authority, try using an office supply cork-backed stainless steel ruler. The cork will grip slippery surfaces and create a straight cut on your balsa or covering. The cool thing is that the ruler will flex and follow the contour of a wing or fuselages. The cork-backed ruler can also be used for making panel lines one your plane because of its flexibility and straight edge.



Applying individual letters and number can be tedious. One way to make it easier is to first lay down a strip of low-tack masking tape (a little longer than what you need), sticky side up. Remove the figures one at a time from their backing and lay on the tape. Use one edge of the masking tape to keep them aligned straight so all you have to worry about is the spacing between letters. Apply the masking tape in place on the model and use your fingers to apply pressure to the letters or numbers in order to stick them down on the surface. Then, just remove the masking tape.



Keeping track of your hex wrenches or ball drivers can sometimes be a headache. You can spend some time looking for the size you need, and how would you know if one was missing? Take a short length of 2×4 and drill holes large enough to stand each driver or wrench in it. Now you can easily find the one I need, and if any are missing, you’ll know right away.

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  1. Use your old covering film and graph paper to align letters and numbers, then use masking tape to transfer them.

  2. Did they stop making wax paper?? I have used it for 60 years.

  3. great tips I especially found the cockpit photo tip of interest and will be using this next time instead of buying expensive dashboard dummies.

  4. Really great tips . especially the use of old credit card

  5. I found out by trying the Plastic wrap works way better than waxed paper. I just tape it to my work bench over the plans or just over the bench working area to protect it from CA. CA does not stick to it. One roll lasts me about a year. If I need some I a hurry, my wife always has a roll.

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