Dubro Pine Ridge

The Dewey Baits are proven baits that are made in the USA by people who know what fish want! "Dew" we catch em? You bet!

Jim Crowley shows you how to properly install a DUBRO Fishing Trac-A-Rod fishing rod rack and storage system.

Jim Crowley has used and supported DUBRO Fishing for years and tells us why he does.

The Barrel Wrap Version of the E/Z Twist Pro is not meant to make the haywire twist, but it is set to make the perfect barrel wrap leader. This video shows you the correct process to make the eye and barrel wrap with your E/Z Twist Pro Barrel Wrap Version.

The Bottle Bit Fishing Line Stripper will make the task of removing line from any spinning or bait casting reel easier than ever and it is simple to use! Check out our website www.dubrofishing.com for more info!

The Control Over-Ride Servo Saver is a handy little kit of parts that you probably should have at least one of in your shop for when you need it. It’s easy to overlook this little thing but there have been several applications over the years that has made this an essential and handy fix for my models.
The installation is as follows:
- Insert the two screws into the two brass collets. These will act as end stops.
- Determine the amount of movement you need in your application and from there also determine how many springs you should use.
- Install the stack of parts as described in this video, as well as on the packaging.
- Adjust centering as-needed with the collets and clip off excess push rod material to avoid binding of the push rod.

Safety lock kwik links work in much the same way you would use regular kwik links. The advantage is that they have a built-in lock to retain the link in place that makes for easy inspection and maintenance.
In this overview, the use of the link and the lock is demonstrated so you know what to look for when using them on your models.

The Du-Bro engine mount system is unique in that it is designed to prevent wear and tear on your entire model by reducing vibration. While this critical step can be a little more involved, if you take it one step at a time, it is a breeze to install.
The installation is outline as follows:
• Remove the elastomer bushings from the mounts. There are 4 per side of the mount.
• Holes need to be drilled for your specific engine by using the instructions for your model to determine the distance between the firewall and the front of the prop hub on your engine. Don’t forget to account for an additional 5mm of depth for the elastomer!
• Using a small spring clamp, you can mark the hole locations for drilling.
• A clamp or vise is recommended to secure your mounts while you drill them. Also use lubricant when drilling.
• With the mounts cleaned of any metal shavings and bolted to the motor, lubricate your elastomers with castor oil or similar oil.
• Determine the orientation of the motor on your model’s firewall and measure the distance between your mounting holes for your firewall.
• Determine the center point on your firewall and use reference marks to then transfer your mount hole measurements to your firewall.
• If retrofitting, plug old holes using hardwood dowels and epoxy/CA glue.
• After drilling holes, install two blind nuts (supplied) at opposite corners on the inside of your model using another bolt (supplied) and blind nut to compress the nut into the wood.
• Install the motor mounts into your two blind nuts and then install the other two bolts and blind nuts.

Selecting the right tubing for your application is just as important for your model as it is for your car. Chemical compatibility is formulated into the material used for a specific fuel usage. The rules to follow are:

- Silicone for nitromethane-based fuels
- Tygon for gasoline-based fuels
- The silicone tubing also comes in several fun colors.

* Silver solder used in video*
Threaded rods and threaded couplers are made for each other for a secure and robust linkage for your control surfaces. The threaded coupler has a cup that is 1cm deep that will receive your threaded rod once you cut it to the length you need.
In this video I cover some best practices with the procedure to make your own custom linkage using threaded rods and threaded couplers. The main points, with some details too, are:
• Measure the length of rod needed between linkage points. I’m using Du-Bro Safety Lock Kwik-Links. I measure the length to use by intending to us threads entirely into each link.
• Using a Metric ruler (remember that 1cm deep cup), mark where to cut the rod and cut it using side cutters or dykes.
• Rough up the end of the rod with some old sand paper laying around just to create additional surface area for solder to grab onto. Clean this end too with rubbing alcohol or another suitable degreaser.
• Dip the freshly cleaned threaded rod end into some soldering flux and insert this into the cup of the threaded coupler.
• Using mechanical (not electrical) solder, create a half-circle of solder and set this on the joint of the rod and coupler using helping hands to keep the this upright for solder to flow into the cup.
• Apply heat using a small butane torch or other suitable heat source for soldering only just until the solder stops boiling in the cup so that you know all the air is out and there will be no voids.
• Once cooled, clean your solder joint and I recommend a just a drop of ketchup to do this. The acid in it will clean up the joint very well.
• Install your clevis links on each end and install to your control surface.