One thing you can do to any ARF model to make it your own is to add custom Markings and details. For the Corsair, I used Red5Designs.com Vinyl markings cut from my own CAD drawings. They fit the model perfectly.
These markings have a clear carrier sheet and a paper backing.
Tape the marking as shown to work out their proper place. Here the fuselage markings are being applied.
For the wing markings I use a drafting square to make sure the markings are square to the root rib.
I use the top of the bars for a reference when applying the wing markings
Here’s the finished wing marking in place. The red bar is applied as a second layer like the first (white) layer. You tape the top of the clear carrier sheet and use it as a hinge. You flip the marking over, remove the paper backing and then squeegee the the decal into place.
There’s the top of the other wing tip.
The underside “MARINES” decal is the largest decal in the set. It went on easily with no wrinkles or bubbles.
Back to the fuselage, the aircraft number “19” goes on the sides of the cowling.
Squadron Markings are on the fin and rudder.
The fuselage sides show the insignia and the MARINES squadron (VMF 232) markings. I used a yard stick to make sure all the markings were applied straight and in the p roper elevation relative to the canopy.
Of course I finished off with a bit of personalized script under the canopy! OK it’s not me, It is Pappy Boyington from “Best Pilots” . But it is my plane after all! The bit of Pilot Naming under the canopy is from Cal-Grafx.com . This company make amazingly accurate printed markings as well as water slide and vinyl stick on markings! Wait till you see their new rivets and screw head details! (More on this later!) http://cal-grafx.com/
With the outside of the plane taken care of, let’s turn our attention to the scale cockpit kit.
First make sure that all the area inside the cockpit section is free of servo wires. I had to reroute some tail wheel retract wiring so the cockpit area was clear.
Now the floor gets glued into place. Test fit it and the aft bulkhead liner into place first and then glue them in with ZAP CA.
Note that I sanded the paint away from the seat base and the back supports so I could get a stronger glue bond.
The same goes for the side panels and the instrument panel. Be sure to sand the backs so you get a good glue bond. Now install the side panels and the instrument panel in the cockpit.
Here you see the area below the instrument panel cut away for the pilots legs and feet.
Now the pilot seat goes in. Again, sand the areas that come in contact with each other and use ZAP CA glue.
I painted any exposed balsa with some dark green O.D. to give the cockpit a finished look.
My scale pilot is non-other than Pappy Boyington, the famous WW2 USMC Pilot and squadron commander from Best Pilots. He gets glued into place with some clear RTV Sealent or GOOP adhesive. Make sure he is center in the cockpit. Don’t want him off center, that would throw off his aim! Yea. I know, I don’t have a gun sight! Hmmm! Something new to think about!
I used Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue to attach the canopy. It really makes the model look like a Corsair.
Shop Tip! Remember to clean the inside of the canopy with some Windex to remove any fingerprints or smudges. You can clean the outside later.
That’s it! Add your 3-blade Hamilton Standard static scale propeller (From the Nick Ziroli Plans kit) and wheel your new Corsair out into the sunlight! Looks great from here, even if I do say so myself!