I got a bit more progress done over the holiday and was able to install the engine and engine cowling on the Top Flite Corsair. Here’s what it looks like now.
(Above) This is the hardware that comes with the DLE 55 engine. The standoffs are aluminum and come with stainless steel screws. There are no screws for attaching the mount standoffs to the firewall so I got some matching 1 1/4 inch cap head screws at the hardware store. (actually, my wife Anita did for me!)
(Above) The last page of the instruction manual includes the engine bolt template and here I have it taped in place on the firewall and have drilled the 1/16 inch pilot holes.
(Above) After enlarging the holes in the firewall, I used long-reach locking forceps to hold and guide the internal bolts and large diameter fender washers into the back of the firewall.
(Above) I then used a long Du-Bro Ball driver to tighten the bolts from inside the fuselage.
(Above) For the DLE 55 engine, the instructions call for using three of the included plywood firewall spacers. Here the spacers and the standoffs are in place.
(Above) Here the engine is in place. The bolts are all installed finger-tight. Now the throttle linkage and the passage holes have to be worked out.
(Above) The kit comes with some snap on 4-40 size ball-links and sockets but for a large warbird like the Corsair, I feel much safer with a heavy-duty ball-link setup. I used the offset link with a washer installed under the attachment bolt head for the throttle and a Sullivan spring loaded link for the choke. The washer under the bolt for the throttle helps prevent the linkage from coming apart should the link want to un-snap…
(Above) Once the linkage is in place, you can determine the location of the passage hole in the firewall/spacers.
(Above) I used a Forstner Bit to remove the material from around the linkage hole location.
(Above) The kit comes with plastic pushrods and guides. I drilled the hole and inserted the throttle pushrod through the firewall to connect it to the throttle servo.
(Above) I installed the throttle servo and clevis before attaching the linkage to the carburetor. There’s more room to work outside of the fuselage. A small dab if thin Zap CA glue where the threaded rod exits the plastic pushrod is advisable.
(Above) Here the linkage is at the “Idle” position. I set the throttle servo to idle with full down trim to set this position while installing the linkage and cutting it to length.
(Above) Here the linkage is at the “Full Power” position. With the linkage attached to the second to last hole in the servo arm the throw was perfect for full throttle movement. After I run the engine, I will be able to make any travel tweaks with the radio.
(Above) Here you can see the heavy duty ball-link and washer arrangement I installed on the throttle arm. This one uses a lock washer but the choke link used some thread locker to secure the nut. The instructions show a servo actuated choke, but I will be installing a mechanical linkage for hand operation. It will be detailed later on in the build.
Tech Tip: Though at this point the instructions do not mention it , after you have installed the engine and throttle linkage, it is a good idea to take very thing apart once more and apply thread locker to all the nuts and bolts, holding the engine and standoffs together.
Stay tuned! There’s lots more to come!